Surfing as Art and Vice Versa

sometimes you just have to paddle out into a disorganized, rough and tumble, mess of storm surge.

then there are those times when it’s six foot, offshore and glassy. The ideal conditions and there’s no crowd.

you say you don’t surf and can’t relate?

OK.. sometimes you just have to grab your brush, squeeze out some paint, and start painting. Your mind is a disorganized mess, you feel conflicted about the validity of your vision and you want to take a nap.

then there are those phases when you’re deep in the “zone” and can do no wrong. every stroke is mad genius and you’re on top of the world, well on the way to creating a masterpiece.

you say you’re not an artist, and you can’t relate?

sometimes you just need to let your imagination run free, put yourself in an unpredictable situation and try to navigate through on your wits.

actually that’s what we call everyday life, if you think about it. we make assumptions about reality and our place in it, often unconsciously and rarely do we challenge ourselves to find out what we actually believe. mostly we plow ahead on received “wisdom” and don’t realize that we have accepted a lot of stuff on faith.

attempting something new can be intimidating and exhilarating, but sometimes it’s what ya gotta do.
like learning to surf, or starting a painting, you have to start where you are and do something. anything. move forward blindly, cluelessly, perhaps fearlessly. use your imagination and feel what this guy might be feeling:

exhilaration and trepidation, danger and play, do it!
exhilaration and trepidation, danger and play, do it!

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